A.P.C. Exquisit (West Germany) 70s Mönchengladbach Rheydt Harrington Variant

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…Late 1970s–80s Harrington-style jacket from Mönchengladbach, tailored with West German precision for transitional, urban wear.



The Harrington-style jacket, produced by Exquisit Herrenmoden of Mönchengladbach-Rheydt, exemplifies the utility that defined West German menswear during the late 1970s through the mid-1980s. While the brand lacks global recognition, its placement within the textile manufacturing nexus of Mönchengladbach—a city synonymous with industrial tailoring, uniform production, and high-quality shirting—anchors it firmly within a legacy of technical precision and regional craftsmanship. Exquisit Herrenmoden operated as a domestic-quality label, supplying transitional outerwear and tailored casual garments to a middle-class consumer base that prioritized performance and subtlety over spectacle. The brand name, “Exquisite Men’s Fashion,” suggests aspirational refinement executed with regional pragmatism. This jacket occupies a specific niche within the broader taxonomy of mid-century European menswear: it is a lightweight, Harrington-inspired casual jacket designed for the demands of spring and fall climates, with equal consideration given to visual modesty and technical function. Though derived from an English silhouette popularized in mid-century America, the Exquisit variant recalibrates the Harrington archetype through a Continental lens. Key divergences—an elongated body, the absence of ribbed waistband or cuffs, and more restrained panel construction—indicate a tailored reinterpretation, informed by German preferences for neat presentation and durable travelwear rather than sporty Americana. Construction details reinforce the garment’s commitment to functional precision. It employs standard lockstitch construction throughout, with twin-needle topstitching reinforcing all structural seams. Interior finishes are executed with clean-finished or French-seamed techniques, lending the piece a well-engineered internal architecture. The shell is fully lined in a classic tartan cotton or cotton-blend, bagged cleanly for ease of movement and interior neatness. This interior approach—precise plaid alignment, inner zip facings, and welt pocket finishing—signals a level of quality more often associated with tailored garments than casual jackets. Functionality is engineered into every closure. The front features a center zip closure concealed beneath a three-button placket, a construction that shields the zipper while adding a touch of tailored formality. The chest hosts a vertical-entry zipped welt pocket secured with a metal zipper—likely of European origin such as Opti or RiRi—and internally faced for durability. Additional side-entry welt pockets are finished with either a double-welt or bound edge. All fastening points are cleanly reinforced, with hardware designed to perform reliably under regular use. The shell fabric, inferred to be a cotton/polyester poplin or microfiber blend, balances wrinkle resistance with wind protection—attributes well-suited for business travel or daily commutes. In terms of visual composition, the jacket reflects post-Bauhaus restraint: no superfluous ornamentation, only purposeful detailing. A structured point collar, cut from a fused woven fabric and finished with visible topstitching, closes with a single button—evoking classic shirting logic in outerwear form. Sleeves are set in with a natural shoulder slope and minimal shaping, prioritizing clean fit over articulated movement. There are no pleats, gussets, or action panels; mobility is achieved through relaxed patterning and the fluidity of the woven shell. The sleeve and hem ends are finished plainly—straight cuffs without tabs, a flat hem with single-fold construction—underscoring the garment’s formal-lite sensibility. Panel configuration is equally understated: two front panels joined to a one-piece back with subtle shaping along the shoulder line. No waist darts are present, relying instead on volume control via block fit and shoulder pitch. The silhouette is relaxed, offering sufficient room for layering over sport coats or knitwear, while maintaining a composed exterior. Seams are cleanly pressed and consistently topstitched—a detail that not only reinforces the structural integrity but contributes to the jacket’s visual discipline. Lining attachment is meticulous, with plaid interior finishes aligned to welt pockets and zip facings, providing tactile coherence throughout. Conceptually, the jacket operates within a design philosophy rooted in German functionalism. It delivers confidence through technical resolve, not aesthetic flamboyance. Its monochromatic surface, absence of logos, and internalized construction communicate restraint—an expression of Cold War-era West German masculinity defined by pragmatism, discipline, and an understated polish. This garment wasn’t made to signal trend alignment; it was made to function, last, and integrate seamlessly into the rhythms of modern European life. The emotional tenor is one of assured dependability—wearable assurance for the discerning, unpretentious man. Artistically, the piece subscribes to post-Bauhaus minimalism, where the silhouette, hardware, and seam geometry are all subordinated to usability. The garment’s compositional logic parallels brands like Aquascutum or Baracuta, whose Harrington jackets are frequently cited in menswear history, but it distinguishes itself through a Germanic lens: cleaner finishes, less visual weight, and an overall quietude of form. It is a piece where tailoring logic is embedded into casualwear—a hybrid garment that resists easy categorization yet fulfills both sartorial and practical demands. Chronologically, this jacket is best placed in the late 1970s to mid-1980s. Supporting indicators include the type of zipper and button hardware, the presence of a woven Exquisit tag with serifed embroidery, and the material choices—particularly the use of cotton-blend poplin and traditional plaid lining. These features correspond with a time when European manufacturers sought to refine Anglo-American silhouettes for a domestic audience increasingly mobile and aspirational. During this period, travel jackets such as this were favored by salesmen, mid-level professionals, and style-conscious tourists—men who needed one jacket to serve both function and decorum. In the contemporary landscape, this jacket holds considerable relevance within heritage menswear circles. Its restrained silhouette and utilitarian ethos resonate with current interest in archival workwear, quiet luxury, and transitional outerwear that avoids branding theatrics. Designers like Norse Projects, A.P.C., and Lemaire have continued the tradition of revisiting Harrington-derived shapes, often softening their British brashness for a more meditative Continental approach—echoing the logic of this Exquisit model. The garment sits squarely within the trajectory of understated European craftsmanship—an object that never sought acclaim but now finds renewed appreciation for its silent intelligence. Construction quality is notably strong for its market tier. Balanced lining application, topstitched seams, and durable closure mechanisms all support a high standard of workmanship consistent with the German textile sector’s mid-century legacy. In today’s market, it represents a prime candidate for reinterpretation—whether through modernized cuts, updated water-repellent cotton/nylon blends, or sustainable performance fabrics. Its silhouette and engineering offer timeless usability; its provenance and detailing provide historic depth. This jacket, ultimately, is a study in quiet luxury and regional technical mastery. It embodies the ethos of West German menswear at its postwar peak—precise, reserved, and built to serve. In its simplicity lies a complex story of textile innovation, cultural identity, and design discipline, now rediscovered through the lens of archival appreciation.

Measurements (cm):
Chest: 65
Length: 71
Shoulder: 50
Sleeve: 62


Size Conversion (approximate):
US Men’s Size: L
EU Men’s Size: 50

SKU: 015198