Tuomi (Finland) 70s Terylene Worsted Twill Structured

SUNDAZED & OUTSIDE SOCIETY
…Sharp peak lapels, triple topstitching, and patch pockets reflect 1980s formalwear reinterpreted through Finnish industrial finesse.
Produced by Finnish label Tuomi during the industrially transformative decades of the mid-to-late 20th century, the teal peak-lapel sport coat exemplifies the Nordic application of modernist tailoring principles f with Cold War-era textile innovation. Rooted in the postwar Finnish ethos of pragmatic sophistication, Tuomi’s garments catered to regional markets where functional tailoring, climatic appropriateness, and technical fidelity were prioritized over branding or seasonal fashion cycles. In alignment with contemporaries like Nanso and Puku, Tuomi bridged classical menswear architecture with the mechanical optimism of techno-fiber adoption—most notably through its use of ICI-developed TERYLENE polyester, emblematic of Finland’s industrial textile economy and its adaptation to synthetic innovation during the Cold War. This particular garment is a two-button, single-breasted men’s sport coat, rendered in a deeply saturated teal wool-polyester twill and constructed with wide peak lapels, three external patch pockets, and sharply executed tonal topstitching. Designed as an assertive, professional-leaning piece, it bridges the space between late 1970s executivewear and spring-fall Nordic urban tailoring. The exaggerated lapel geometry, clean silhouette, and graphic topstitching indicate a visual vocabulary borrowed from continental power dressing of the late 1970s—reinterpreted here through a distinctly Finnish lens that tempers flamboyance with measured structural control. The outer shell is composed of a 55–65% wool and 35–45% TERYLENE polyester blend, woven into a plain-faced 2/2 worsted twill that demonstrates clear diagonal ribbing and a smooth, slightly lustrous finish. The use of TERYLENE—a proprietary fiber developed by Imperial Chemical Industries and widely licensed across Europe—reflects mid-century advancements in wrinkle resistance, dimensional retention, and rapid-drying fiber systems. The twill weave yields a tightly packed, medium-weight fabric (approx. 240–300 GSM) that balances crisp drape with tactile sharpness, devoid of loft or nap. Its technical lineage aligns with heritage suiting weaves such as cavalry twill, Prunelle, gabardine, and worsted serge—each chosen historically for their tailored form stability and performance properties. Comparable textile production would have originated from mills like ICI’s own TERYLENE affiliates in the UK, Schönherr in Austria, Klippan Yllefabrik in Sweden, or the suiting divisions of Marzotto Group in Italy—each with an industrial focus on resilient, synthetically reinforced wool fabrics for formalwear and uniforms. Structurally, the jacket is drafted with a bold shoulder line, deep front opening, and elongated torso—a silhouette archetype of 1980s formalwear. Patterning follows a classic single-breasted layout with likely three-panel front construction, vertical bust darts for shaping, and a two-piece tailored sleeve with a high sleevehead. The sleeve pitch is slightly forward, enhancing ergonomic arm movement, while the absence of puckering at the crown indicates strong sleeve cap shaping and precise setting. The collar and lapel are cut as distinct pieces, with reinforced fusible interfacing providing the necessary structural tension for the sharp peak lapel—its edge cleanly turned and defined by triple rows of evenly spaced topstitching. These linear repetitions are mirrored on the pocket edges, chest seams, and front placket, emphasizing not only visual rhythm but panel cohesion. The pocket configuration consists of three patch pockets—two lower and one chest—executed with rounded corners and tight topstitching for clean edge integrity. All pocket placements are symmetrical and flat, stitched with industrial precision on straight-feed or walking-foot machinery. Buttonholes are keyhole-style, machine-executed with dense bar tacks and clean cut openings. The two-button closure uses horn-style resin buttons, cross-stitched and likely shanked internally for thread protection. The lapel roll is firm, angular, and reinforced without the subtle contouring typical of canvas-padded structures—confirming the use of a fusible interfacing layer throughout the chest and lapel front. Internally, the jacket is fully lined with a dark black acetate or viscose lining, inserted using a bagged method with clean seam joins and machine finishing throughout. Seam finishing employs standard overlocking, with no evidence of hand felling or couture-level seam treatment, affirming its industrial production context. The shoulder structure likely incorporates lightweight canvas or pre-formed sleevehead roll supports, which provide elevation and shape without bulk. The hem is cleanly enclosed with internal facings and pressed flat with minimal edge bulk—a result of precise interfacing calibration and effective pressing during final assembly. Conceptually, the garment operates at the intersection of formal assertiveness and Nordic functionalism. The sharply angled peak lapels and tonal monochrome project confidence, while the durable, easy-care wool blend affirms practical longevity. Aesthetic cues from early postmodern tailoring are evident in the garment’s architectural lapel silhouette and decorative topstitching—drawing from a late-modernist lineage where structural exaggeration supplanted surface embellishment. Visually, it engages a dialogue between geometric abstraction and Bauhaus-inflected suiting restraint, yielding a product that balances visual impact with utilitarian sensibility. Historically, this coat belongs to a transitional era in European menswear—circa late 1970s—where poly-wool blends dominated the professional tailoring market and regional producers like Tuomi adapted executivewear silhouettes for Nordic climates and manufacturing paradigms. In today’s market, such garments are increasingly studied and recontextualized by designers and archivists attuned to pre-digital tailoring languages. Brands like Martine Rose, Casablanca, Paul Smith, and Husbands Paris have revisited these silhouettes and fabrication logics, injecting oversized lapels, tonal color schemes, and synthetic fiber narratives into modern collections. From a market viability standpoint, this Tuomi jacket holds value as a technically sound, visually potent example of Cold War-era Nordic tailoring. Its structural precision, material resilience, and chromatic boldness position it well within curated vintage platforms, stylized menswear capsules, and archival study. It offers a distinctive, era-specific take on masculine formalwear that is neither nostalgic pastiche nor commodity suiting—situating itself as a tangible record of Scandinavian industrial tailoring and its aesthetic negotiation between modernism and expressive clarity.
Measurements (cm):
Chest: 48
Length: 75
Shoulder: 43
Sleeve: 63


Size Conversion (approximate)
US Men’s Size: S
EU Men’s Size: 46
US Women’s Size: M
EU Women’s Size: 38

SKU: 015061

USD : 38.5